Surfing bali style. / by tina gonsalves

The day was perfect. We walked down the road. We bought some sunglasses. Mine are white with black lenses. We went to the beach and played in the surf. We had a swim. Dad and me went too far and got stuck in a rip, but dad pushed me away from the rip.

When waves break on a beach they push towards the shoreline, and this causes a rip current as the water moves back out to sea. To get out of a rip you should try to keep your feet on the bottom as much as possible. You need to remain calm if a rip current pulls you away from shore. Try to regain footing and call for help. Swim parallel to the shore to get out of the current.

I like surfing, because I like getting bashed by the waves.

The best surfer in the world is Mick Fanning.

There are many surfers in Bali and many surf breaks. Some surf breaks are sand or rock or reef and even pebbles. 

The water temperature is very warm and the water is very salty.  

image.jpg